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Hess Natur hired designer Miguel Adrover to raise the brand's profile from reliable, mail-order apparel into something more genre defining. For them, it's all about high style with sustainable materials and methods. For us, it's all about Adrover finally finding a company to stand by his visions and bring clothes to the market.

According to an article in the International Herald Tribune, Adrover will maintain a work studio in Palma, Spain, as the German company expands with stand alone stores around Europe plus a higher level of US presence. So, file under, Miguel Adrover rules the school and please don't forget it, this time, Miguel Adrover for Hess Nature will present a collection during New York Fashion Week. Shown above, screen shoot from Fashion Calendar verifying this remarkable revelation.

Somehow, designer Andrew Holden resists reading the newest edition of Antenna Magazine that sits in front of him. (The beer belongs to this reporter, yikes!) Maybe it's because the second season, s/s '09, for his own collection, Conference of Birds, is less than an hour away from a runway show. While currently lacking its own website, the video of last season's debut for f/w '08 is just a click away. More on s/s '09 soon.

Loden Dager is one of New York's smoothest up-and-coming menswear labels. A collective of four friends who design as a group, the collection is all about being clean, wearable and realistic for regular dudes.

Yup, it's a simple formula of updating classic pieces for today's audience. Far from a cliché, the Loden Dager spin is absolutely fresh and approachable.

Loden Dager's presentations over New York Fashion Week have been more like fun parties rather than traditional catwalk events. Now they're taking the formula to Paris with a spring/summer 2009 presentation, July 3–4, with some help from the group's showroom, Opening Ceremony.

I know it's hard to believe, but starting in 2010, NY Fashion Week will have to find a new home away from Bryant Park, where it's been since 1993. IMG World, the organizers of Fashion Week, are in a kind of standoff with Bryant Park officials who say the event has come to monopolize the park. Where the tents will end up, nobody knows for sure. There was talk of the festivities moving over to the soon-to-be developed 10th Avenue Rail yards, but it looks like that idea is getting scratched in favor of the Port Authority Bus Terminal.

No -- I'm not making this up. The foremost event in US fashion might one day end up on the roof of a smelly old bus terminal, but there are some upsides -- like having access to the terminal's sweet vending machines. The New York Times office is right across the street too, so I'm sure they'll like that. Right now, the heads of the Port Authority are trying to sell the idea to IMG, the only major problem is that there aren't adequate elevators to get people up to the roof.

So you've always wanted to wear the hottest runway looks but don't want to break the bank to do so? Maybe you've got the itch to just do it yourself? Well, my awesome friends over at Threadbanger are here to help you out. Their weekly video podcast is full of great tips and tutorials on DIY fashion, as well as the scoop on plenty of underground independent designers.

In the most recent episode, they travel to New York Fashion Week and chat with Malan Breton of Project Runway season 3 fame, check out a fashion show by punk rock indie design house New York Couture, and finally give you a video tutorial on how to make a fabulous ruffle collar, based on one seen in James Coviello's Fall 2008 collection. There's also a tutorial on their blog, if you're not into video. It's a really simple sewing project, and the result is amazing! Who said you need to spend thousands of dollars to get an fresh-from-the-runway look?

It's been a really long time since Gap was anything to write home about. After achieving phenomenal success back when Hootie and the Blowfish had fans, the company lost its way -- limping along as a watered-down, cheaper (but not cheap enough) version of JCrew, too expensive to be Target, yet too bland to be worth the money.

But things are looking up. Gap recently hired Patrick Robinson, a new creative director who they hoped would return the brand back to its glory days. And while sales still suck, the clothes are at least looking halfway decent.

Gap's showing at New York Fashion Week (the first new line under Robinson's guidance) revealed a new direction -- capitalizing on the 90s resurgence, and combining grunge aesthetic (read: flannel shirts) with more modern looking pants and boots. In traditional Gap style, it's all a little safe (fashionable, but not so fashionable that you'd get beat up for it at your suburban high school), but I bet even the discerning fashionista will be able to find an item or two that they'd be willing to include in their regular wardrobe.

What do you get when you take a bunch of art students who can design collections without the nagging question of "will this sell in a store?" What you get is one hell of a show with oodles of creativity.

The Academy of Art University showed off nine collections at Bryant Park on Saturday afternoon for Fashion Week. This was their fourth time showing at the tents. The University President states that "[it is an] opportunity as a part of our commitment to launch the careers of our graduates."

Man, I wish my Universities fashion department had done that for me. Of course once I watched the show I realized that this opportunity wasn't just handed over on silver platter to these students, they worked for it, as their collections were amazing.



The students showing collections included:

Sherise Eways and Melissa Christensen: Who sent a women's wear collection down the catwalk that was based on the metamorphosis of a women into a bird, butterfly or flower.

Marie Potesta: Marie designed my favorite collection of the bunch. She used bold stripes, geometric shapes and was influenced by origami. This collection blew me away, I wore wear every piece of it.

BoKyung Cha: This collection has massive bows, hot pink, and light gray -- so naturally I loved it. Accessories like fingertip gloves wear added for that extra something special.

Felice Morganti: Felice's collection provided the most gasps with her dreadlock pieces, she used organic wools to create the effect. Her shocking pieces of knitwear were paired with amazing sculpted leather that looked like beautiful honeycombs.

Jee Hyoung: Showcased a women's wear collection with architectual influences and quilted textiles.

Young Jun Ryu: Used M.C. Escher's artwork, geometric shapes, and even cartoon influences (Marvin the Martian) as influences.

Juhee Chung: Designed a collection that was knitted to look like metal work and also worked in a variety of textures using braiding.

Soo Jung Sung and Ivanka Georgiev: Pilot uniforms and Asian influences worked themselves into this creative collection but I think the most creative part was the use of paper. The duo bonded newsprint and brown paper for the base fabric.

Shady N.R. Elias: This menswear designer found influence in a strange place for his collection ... the song Bang Bang (My Baby Shot Me Down). The silhouette was meant to represent the weight of the world on his shoulders.

I always like going into shows like Lacoste because, like Nautica, I really don't know what to expect. I mean of course I know Lacoste, who doesn't? They do have a sweet little alligator for a mascot! However when it comes to them on the runway I just don't know.

With any runway show, this one was getting off to a fashionably late start. To kill time I read the program and call sheet, which is something I usually save until after the show (I am weird like that). The show was to consist of three distinct looks for the "stylish ski slopes" : a contemporary homage to Rene Lacoste, a mountain-high ride to Kingston Jamaica, and finally a ski disco party with leg warmers over jeans. My excitement was starting build, especially over the leg warmers.

When I walked into the tent the first thing I noticed was that the runway was covered in white fur, sheepskin to be exact! Either this was going to be super cool or super funny when models in heels tried to walk across this "animal" of a runway. Fashion roadkill or no, the mood was very fun and cozy -- I liked it.

Not to be totally negative but the program was more exciting than the collection. Not to say that I didn't like the collection because I did, I just didn't like it as much as I thought I would. The 1980's touches that normally would have scared me were kind of adorable in the ski setting. The pink, purples, and teal pastels in the disco ski party segment made me think of my younger years sledding in the backyard, which is never a bad thing.

Takeaway trends:
- Varsity style V-neck sweaters
- Wide stripes
- Tapered leg pants
- Colored tights

And as shameful as this is to say -- I will be wearing my leg warmers over my jeans next Fall.

Just when I thought Fashion Week couldn't get anymore spectacular out comes a show that was really worth standing in line for -- Rock and Republic. I knew I was in for something special when the line to get in wrapped around Bryant Park. It looked more like people lined up for rock concert than a fashion show and in the end; it was really a bit of both.

After being herded from line to line we were brought into the main tent which had been transformed from what I saw it to be the night before, to an all out event. The main tent looked like a full out concert arena, crazy lights and all. There were streaming spotlights panning across the crowd, a gigantic double runway, and a full musical ensemble in the middle of it all. I knew I was in for something bigger a fashion show, much bigger.

The celebrities really came out for this one too. Tyson Beckford was there, so was Nigel Barker, Lydia Hearst, Joss Stone, and Vivica A. Fox. And those were just the ones who walked past me!

The band was playing The Beatles, which to me was totally unexpected but totally cool at the same time. Exactly 65 looks stomped down the runway in a palette of blacks and purples. The collection was sleek, sexy, and screamed 70's glam. Tied in with the whole musical experience the show was pretty much flawless.

Takeaway trends:

- Asymmetrical silhouettes
- Plunging necklines
- Menswear inspired pieces
- Huge collars and enormously cozy turtlenecks

Oh and one more takeaway was sexy models, my goodness those boys looked good!

Those Fashion Week organizers are a sneaky bunch! Yesterday's schedule said "Project Runway Designer" at 8:00pm in the Altman Building. Everyone was speculating it was going to be the Project Runway show but then realized it was going to a be a designer from a past season. But who would it be; Jay, Austin, or maybe Santino?

Those dreams were shattered for me when I realized the designer was Victorya Hong from this season's Project Runway. She wasn't my favorite when she was on the show; she started off with a bang and sizzled until her cut (the denim challenge). With all that in mind I wasn't too thrilled that I took a cab in the rain to see her.


The show had no assigned seating so I sat front row to see the whole mess go down the runway. A mess it was. " Although all of the pieces in her collection called "na-be" incorporated key trends for Fall 2008 like: cut outs, neon, the 80's, and menswear her execution was all wrong. The clothes had poor construction and the styling could have been a lot better. There was clearly a reason why she was kicked off the show but hey, at least the show's swag bag was good!

Here is the thing about Fashion Week ... not all of the shows are actually at Bryant Park. There are actually tons of cool shows that are in other discrete locations all around New York City during the week. I was lucky enough to get tipped off to some really cool shows that are off site. Unfortunately when you are a rushed around and insane you often misread important messages that show up on your Blackberry. For example:

Tip-off number one was Three As Four show at the Altman Building at 6:00 on Saturday. Why did my cracked out on coffee and cookies (yes I actually ate a cookie) behind somehow think that was Friday? Or did I think today was actually Saturday? Point is, I am sitting in the Altman Building waiting for a show that isn't going to happen. The show that is going to happen is a secret Project Runway designer. I now know the secret but I am too bitter to tell. You will just have to wait until my post after the show. Ha, take that!

The Project Runway Designer show starts at 8pm (it's 5:30 now) so I am just going to sit here and blog my little heart out while I get an inside look at fashion show production. You see how I am turning a stupid mistake of mine into a learning experience? Yeah, I am cool like that. Who knows I may end up backstage, this could have some insane amazing ending.